You've probably driven past those magazine-worthy backyard ponds and thought about adding one to your own space. The idea sounds perfect—especially when you're staring down another week of 95-degree days and dreaming about a cool, shaded corner to actually relax in. But here's what those glossy photos won't tell you: what thrives in Portland or Seattle will just cook here. And nobody wants to spend their weekends nursing a struggling pond back to health.
We build water features all over the San Fernando Valley, and the mistake we see over and over? People choosing plants because they look good in pictures instead of plants that'll survive our reality. Burbank's tucked into that valley bowl up against the Verdugo Mountains, which means serious heat from June through September and just enough winter chill to keep things interesting. Your water garden needs plants that won't wilt in August or sulk when temperatures drop.
Think in Three Layers
A healthy pond works like a three-story building. Down at the bottom, you've got fully submerged plants—anacharis and hornwort are your best bets. These are the workhorses. They pump oxygen into the water and starve out algae before it can turn everything green. Anacharis grows so fast you'll actually need to thin it out by mid-summer, but that's the kind of problem you want. Hornwort's even tougher and handles our temperature swings without flinching.
Your middle layer is the edge crew—plants growing in shallow water or right along the margins. Pickerel rush gives you those deep purple flower spikes all summer. Cattails are the classic choice and they love full sun, which you've definitely got. Water iris adds height and won't panic if the water level drops a few inches during a hot stretch. These marginal plants do double duty: they filter out debris and give frogs and dragonflies somewhere to hang out.
Up top, you've got floaters—water lettuce, water hyacinth, maybe duckweed if you don't mind how aggressively it spreads. They create shade, which keeps the water cooler and makes algae way less likely to take over. Water hyacinth puts out gorgeous lavender blooms, but fair warning: it grows so fast you'll be pulling handfuls out every couple weeks in peak summer. That's actually a good thing—it means the plant's doing its job.
What Each Season Actually Looks Like
Spring's your planting window. We're dividing crowded plants, adding new varieties, fishing out winter debris that settled at the bottom. Summer's all about watching the water level—you'll lose more to evaporation than you'd think. If you've got sensitive plants, consider rigging up some shade cloth on the south side during July and August.
Fall means cutting back the marginal plants as they die off and pulling out spent foliage before it sinks and decomposes. Winter's usually pretty mellow here, but keep an eye on floating leaves. They'll decay and mess with your water quality if you let them pile up.
Making It Look Like It Belongs
The best water gardens don't look like someone just dropped plants wherever there was space. Put your tall stuff—cattails, water iris—toward the back or sides. Shorter marginal plants come forward. Floaters drift on their own, which gives you that effortless, natural look without overthinking placement. Mix in some natives like pickerel rush and you'll get birds and beneficial insects showing up without any extra work.
Here's what we tell clients: you don't need a massive space or a horticulture degree. You just need to work with what Burbank actually gives you instead of fighting it. The right plants make all the difference between a pond that practically runs itself and one that becomes another weekend chore you start to dread.
If you're thinking about adding a water feature or your existing pond needs a refresh, start with the plants. Get those right and everything else—water clarity, wildlife, the whole vibe—tends to fall into place. And if you want someone to look at your specific setup before you commit, we're around to talk through what'll work for your yard.
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